How does an ocean wave change as it moves from deep water to shallow water?

Goldwaagefhu

Goldwaagefhu

Answered question

2023-01-21

How does an ocean wave change as it moves from deep water to shallow water?

Answer & Explanation

Jewel Kelly

Jewel Kelly

Beginner2023-01-22Added 11 answers

The height of the crest is equal to the length of the wave's trough.
The wave's trough begins to interact with the ocean floor as it gets closer to the shore. The bottom of the wave slows down as a result of drag created by the trough's interaction with the bottom's surface.
The drag on the trough of the wave causes the crest to increase in height. Also the crest does not slow down as much as the trough. This causes the crest to extend beyond the trough creating the breakers seen near shore.

Do you have a similar question?

Recalculate according to your conditions!

Ask your question.
Get an expert answer.

Let our experts help you. Answer in as fast as 15 minutes.

Didn't find what you were looking for?